Bulldogs, bare legs and brocade: here is the ultimate London Fashion Week Spring/ Summer 2014 trend lowdown.
BURBERRY PRORSUMÂ by Emily Folkes
It was time for the highly-anticipated Burberry show in Kensington Gardens. With a finale of falling petals, a front row including Chung and Styles, and not to mention the likes of Delevingne and Dunn gracing the catwalks, the show did not fail to wow the fashion elite. Chief designer of the quintessentially British brand, Christopher Bailey, shocked his followers with a soft and delicate mood. A pretty pastel palate of spearmint, palma violet and rose-petal-pinks ran throughout. See-through tops, skirts and lacy dresses were a shocking and suggestive twist for the brand; Burberry has turned sexy. The famous trench coat was now embellished with hand-sewn crystal flowers and huge elaborate belts. Bailey titled it an “English Gardenâ€: indeed, it was the epitome of elegance and grace.
TOPSHOP UNIQUE by Amira Arasteh
Topshop Unique tends be treated with a fond bias by shoppers and bloggers over other designer collections. Nonetheless, they do not cut any corners in ensuring a fabulous show. There was a natural theme in the colour scheme, with waxy, woodland greens, and sea and sky blues prominent. This collection offered a slightly more luxe value to the quality and style of designs than standard Topshop. Silk was popular, with prints consisting of Moroccan-esque tiles, uneven stripes and ethnic patterns. The collection included Middle Eastern influences, but toned it down with soft, neutral colourings. Tassels and fringing adorned some of the later designs, really giving the aura of being on holiday in Abu Dhabi or Morocco. Suede cover-ups were also prominent throughout for the chillier moments in one’s holiday. It’s nice to know that, as per, Topshop has thought of everything!
Before the beautiful models had even appeared on the runway we knew that Mulberry had something special in store. The catwalk had been decorated in a fairytale style: delicate white roses and ivy climbed the surrounding walls, while daisies dotted the grass floor. It was as if we had been transported to a hidden meadow. The show opened with supermodel of the moment, Cara Delevingne, who elegantly entered in a chic, light and dark silvery jacquard coat paired with a matching just-above-the-knee tailored skirt. This jacquard trend fed through into other looks in the form of a pretty, fitted jacket and exquisite cropped trouser, all of which displayed the natural curves of the female body. Crisp, white skirts, dresses and shirts with a textured floral pattern conveyed a charming, polished look. The shot of black leather in the collection added contrast and edge, transforming the show into a modern fairytale.
TOM FORD by Lydia Mckee
London welcomed the former Gucci designer’s cementing of his love for the city this year with the opening of his first store. This week, Ford showed further appreciation for the capital in a show that juxtaposed mini with oversized, monochrome with glitter balls, and extravagance with simplicity. Opening with an oversized oak biker jacket and matching mini skirt, Ford channelled 1970’s biker chic before launching into a series of monochrome cobweb and zebra prints, combining a simple colour scheme with lavish, sheer fabrics. A few standard Ford tuxedos later, and an army of glittery gladiators strut down the catwalk. Thigh-high boots and exaggerated shoulders celebrated what Ford’s collection was all about, strong women: women who can own their femininity by wearing super short skirts and glittery dresses should they want to, but who are simultaneously physically strong.
JW ANDERSON by Rachel Hummel
For the quickly rising design phenomenon, Jonathan Anderson, the past five years have proven extremely eventful, and SS14 is no exception. His collection this season was rich, with textures and shapes melding together to tell an interesting story. The show opened with floor length sheaths, periodically and beautifully placed cinching down the silhouette. The colours remained simple, with charcoals and ivories, but still a hint of metallic to draw complete focus. An almost liquid effect can be observed in some of the pieces; however, as the show progressed the story shifted from romanticism to harsher origami shapes. Closing with voluminous sequin skirts and architectural, yet simple, white tops, this collection will certainly be remembered among an impressive repertoire.
ROKSANDA ILINCIC by Hannah Yates
It was a poignant moment in Ilincic’s career. Having won the Red Carpet Award at the British Fashion Awards in 2012, this collection provided the opportunity to cement the idiosyncrasies she has become renowned for. Yellows and oranges were fundamental, and accentuated her geometry through sharp distinction from delicate hints of black, and the softer use of pastel greys and whites. Ilincic’s ability to intricately contrast evocative textures with well thought out geometric lines is her forte. Her use of crystallised beading and PVC flowers as embellishment were cleverly juxtaposed with her zeal for architectural precision and unadorned silhouettes. The rare marriage of understatement and elegance is always at the heart of Ilincic’s designs. Although her designs appear minimalist and effortless, she creates excitement and drama using simple shapes and pattern. She is arguably not just a designer, but an architect.
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