Staff writer Sabrina Hau explores the barriers young artists may face in achieving success within the elite and often impenetrable world of fashion
Coming back from London Fashion Week made me realise the possibilities that London provides for generations of creatives. From the outside, people assume the fashion industry to be impenetrable. Although not entirely untrue, the ability for young students to thrive in this line of work is not “impossible” either.
London Fashion Week: Gatekept or Not?
Being one of the key 4 locations to host Fashion Week, London acts as a catalyst for bringing new talent into the industry every year, fostering new trends and markers of creativity. Over the course of February 19-23, both established and emerging designers have come to London to present their newest collections, providing the ultimate space for students and other artists to connect with like-minded individuals.
Many prospective creative students gravitate towards schools such as Central Saint Martins (CSM) or the London College of Fashion (LCF). The abundance of resources from these institutes helps facilitate those aspiring to participate in the fashion industry. During the course of London Fashion Week (LFW), CSM’s MA programme held its evening show at a secretive central London location, with 23 students unveiling their final collections, including the L’Oréal Prize winner Finnerty Mackay. In the same week, fashion powerhouse Burberry closed out LFW while celebrating its 170th anniversary, marking a return to London after recent seasons spent in more pastoral settings. Other student shows have also been featured throughout the week, including the University of Salford’s MA runway and the LCF’s MA ‘26 catwalk. The combination of both established fashion houses and the showcase of student designers makes LFW a unique space that blends both emerging talents and the already established industry.
There is an argument to be made whether or not these shows are created equally, as Burberry had a tight guest list encompassing A-list celebrities and social media influencers, while other shows were more open to the public or younger emerging talents. The unequal distribution of press coverage on certain larger brands and lesser-known designers is also reflected. Tolu Coker’s show received an immense amount of influence for King Charles III’s attendance, while other brands have seen more coverage on an indie magazine or simply an Instagram post.
What it Means to be in Fashion
To understand what goes on behind the scenes, I interviewed a current BA Fashion Design student studying at the University of Arts London – Central Saint Martins (CSM). With several successful alumni such as Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, and John Galliano, the institution continues to introduce more creatives who have the potential to bring new trends and break traditions in the fashion industry.
The student described their overall experience at CSM to be “not as rewarding”, and has often “questioned why I chose to study in fashion.” Although they expressed their continued passion for fashion design, they said that “our looks are only on the runway for a few seconds, the outcome and input do not feel as fun”. This expression is somewhat revealing about how creatives today are put to the test about passions in the creative space. According to this student, many spend more time having independent studies, only remaining on the conceptual stages, rather than allowing them to have experience in designing completed looks and technical practices. Despite CSM’s “approach to fashion through an artistic perspective” and “insider perspectives being rewarding” to students’ understanding of the industry, it seems that people may begin to question what role these institutions play in actually enriching students’ creative thinking.
Another student also explained their experience while trying to find internships as a student. “I don’t really know what it means to do or be in the fashion industry even while studying it”. The lack of information and immense competition even within the schools makes it difficult for students who study at these universities to keep up with what the industry is demanding. It is clear that while CSM functions as an educational institution, it seems to benefit students more as a starting point to networks, which confines the number of people who can build relationships in the fashion industry. Ultimately, certain barriers to entry and gatekeeping cultures still exist. However, this underlines the importance of taking certain risks to put students out there to create connections that may become beneficial to creative workers who wish to be in the industry.
In addition to speaking to fashion students, I also attended several events myself. The methods that I used included cold-emailing PR agencies from LFW’s press and sales list, searching on social media platforms for attendance tickets, event RSVPs, and more. Because many accreditations to attend such shows require much larger audience outreach and experience in the industry, the replies were lacklustre to say the least. However, it was more surprising to find that the possibility of attendance is not entirely impossible. I was fortunate to have been able to go to certain shows, meet the designers backstage, and also get to know other creatives. Although these shows may not have equal audience outreaches, it is not to say that LFW shows and brands do not give opportunities for creatives to meet others who may share similar interests.
Breaking the Barrier
While one may continue to argue that London’s fashion scene is something that is impenetrable, this view is what continues to discourage certain students from wanting to try to break into roles that may allow them to find their communities.
Instead of discouragement, the increasing platforms for people to connect and network with those who have similar interests are very useful in taking a step towards discovering what the fashion industry really represents. Additionally, to not be afraid of rejection, and attempt to reach out to people working in the industry can end up as a rewarding way to connect with those who have experience. Knowing people in the fashion industry is crucial to wanting to demonstrate skill sets and gaining experience. Whether this be through social media, university societies, or simply cold emails, taking the first step is what ultimately helps with breaking into the industry.
In the end, one’s love for fashion should remain as what it has always represented: a truly creative expression.
