Staff Writer Kelly Cheong discusses the return of the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show in light of its history and controversies, highlighting its role in shaping and challenging modern beauty standards.
The infamous Victoria’s Secret (VS) Fashion Show was revived after a six-year hiatus on 15 October 2024. This marks a new beginning for the brand, which has been struggling to appeal to their disillusioned fan base since the #MeToo era.
Brief History
The lingerie brand was founded in 1977 by American billionaire Roy Raymond. It held its first fashion show in August 1995 in New York, which was a modest affair compared to the spectacles we are familiar with today.
Largely due to its high production value and star-studded catwalk, the fashion show quickly became one of the most famous ones in the world. Within a few years, thousands of models from around the globe were auditioning for a chance to walk alongside some of the biggest names in modelling, while outsiders vied for a ticket to watch them in action.
In 1999, the spectacle was streamed online for the first time. It was watched by more than two million people, marking the beginning of its massive popularity in online streaming. This paved the way for the show’s rise as a cultural phenomenon.
Downfall
It seems as if Victoria’s Secret had hit their peak in the early 2000s. The numbers they once used to reach seemed miles away and the hype surrounding the event had simmered down immensely.
This was driven by several factors, including declining sales and viewership. A major cause was the rise of the #MeToo movement, which sparked a wave of criticism against the brand’s hyper-fixation on slim body types. The public started to perceive fashion shows like this ‘outdated’ in an era increasingly focused on inclusivity.
To pour gasoline on the fire, the brand’s directors made a spectacle of themselves. Ed Razek, the CMO of L Brands (Victoria’s Secret parent company), made several controversial comments in a VOGUE interview, saying that he believes Victoria’s Secret should not hire plus-sized or transsexual models since the show is meant to be a “fantasy”. Further, the CEO Les Wexner was exposed for having ties with notorious sex offender Jefferey Epstein.
Finally, the nail in the coffin came when the toxic work culture in Victoria’s Secret was brought to light by a report in the New York Times – interviews given by 30 past and current employees highlighted an environment where misogyny and bullying were prevalent.
After all of this, it seemed that Victoria’s Secret’s era of relevance was over and its once renowned fashion show would never return.
Redemption Arc
But… it did come crawling back. In 2021, Victoria’s Secret split from L Brands and began a campaign to overhaul their brand image. They publicly announced a renewed commitment to body-positivity, inclusion and female-empowerment. Notably, they revamped the “Angels” to the “VS collective”, which now consists of several brand ambassadors chosen to celebrate diversity. Many changes were made and remain prevalent in this years’ show.
Those tuning in would have seen plus-sized (Ashley Graham, Paloma Elsesser) as well as transgender models (Valentina Sampaio, Alex Consani) walk the runway, a far cry from the vision of their disgraced ex-CMO. Many fans also spotted that ‘older’ body types were being celebrated, with 50-years-old models like Tyra Banks and Kate Moss taking the stage.
The question is: was it enough? Some fans were underwhelmed by the show’s lack of glitz and glam in comparison to their previous ones – “Victoria Secret really said go woke, go broke”, as one comment read. On the other hand, some argued that the show was not inclusive enough. Apart from a few new body types, most of the models still embodied the traditional ‘skinny’ ideal.
Regardless, Victoria’s Secret’s comeback is still in its early stages. While one can criticise it for taking baby steps, this would overlook its potential as a platform for change. The attempt has shown that even long-standing brands can try to evolve, even if they are late to the party. Ever since its conception, the core of Victoria’s Secret had revolved around a sexy, skinny body type, catering to the male gaze. Now, in trying to move with the times, they have created a whole new outlook centred on the female gaze instead.
An understanding view recognises that dismantling what they’ve already built will naturally take years. To deconstruct, reconstruct and implement a whole new image is a massive undertaking and fans should allow Victoria’s Secret to roll out the developments on their own timeline. A harsher take, however, would point out that other lingerie brands, such as Calvin Klein underwear, have evolved much faster, and gone all out to embrace these changes.
The brand’s historical influence on beauty norms is undeniable. With a conscious shift toward inclusivity and the female gaze, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show could play a key role in shaping contemporary standards, just as it once shaped past ideals.
