Culture Editor Alicia Khan reflects on her summer in Pakistan, exploring its rich history and sharing personal insights gained along the way.
This article was first published in print on 16 September 2024.
Why Pakistan?
Normally, my family holiday involves lounging by a resort pool. We spend our time overindulging in the all-inclusive and enjoying a ten-day fake reality of zero commitments. However, this year was different: for the first time, our summer holiday was to Pakistan. My mum’s family lives in the country, so it’s closely tied to my roots. Many were surprised I had never visited before. I knew Pakistan only as the place from where I’d occasionally be pressured into phone calls with relatives I barely knew—who seemed to know everything about me. I held only a distant connection to Pakistan, until now.
Karachi
Exhausted after a 12-hour flight, we entered Karachi’s chaotic luggage hall. The baggage area was a frenzy, with bags from what seemed like every flight being released at once. Outside, thousands of people packed behind metal barricades, waiting for their loved ones. Cameras flashed and armed officers stood in front of the crowd. To my surprise, we had to walk right through. I wondered if I had something written on my forehead, as I seemed to be caught in a staring contest with every stranger I passed. A common experience in Pakistan, as I later learned.
Once we reached the hotel, my mum outlined the plan for the first week: visiting family and settling in. We travelled from Clifton’s beachside to the congested streets of Hyderabad, weaving through narrow alleys and bustling markets. Here, away from the comfort of air conditioning and hotel rooms, I experienced the raw, vibrant life of the city. Here, even small tasks like filling up petrol were jobs for hire.
After exploring the city and its attractions, it didn’t take long for the inevitable to happen. Our bodies began to rebel, falling ill, one by one. I will save you the gory details of the events of this first week. By the end of it, we were off to the next place in our travels!
Mirpur, Azad Kashmir
After a plane ride to Islamabad and a few hours on the road, we arrived in Mirpur. I was especially excited to visit the city I’d heard so much about growing up. It’s where my mum would always tell me our family came from in Pakistan. Right away, I noticed how different it was from Karachi. The people seemed much more welcoming, yet the same strong work ethic I saw in Karachi was evident here too. I instantly felt a connection to Mirpur and was grateful for the opportunity to visit.
One day, I decided to join some of my family in visiting the graves of our deceased relatives. I felt a deep desire to go with them. Even though I had never met the people in the graves we visited, I was still drawn to this activity. I’m still not totally sure why. All I knew was how much I wanted to experience more of Mirpur. I realised how much this place meant to my family, particularly my mum whose parents were from here. This realisation fuelled my longing to visit the graveyards, hoping to learn more about the history of those who had passed. I was grateful to be there, so I wanted to make the most of every moment.
The graveyards there had a simple beauty, bringing a sense of peace and calm. As we visited each grave, we laid down flower petals, something I had never done before. It was especially meaningful to do this with my great uncle—a man I’d also never met before this trip. But I was so glad to have spent a day with him. His contagious smile was always present, even though he had lost so much, as I later learned. His resilience left a deep impression on me and reminded me of the importance of cherishing every moment life brings.
Swat
Next up was our journey to Swat, a district located in Northern Pakistan. From the moment we arrived, I was fascinated by the breathtaking beauty of Swat. As we drove through towering mountains and along narrow cliffside roads, I felt surprisingly at ease. Before this trip, if someone had shown me pictures of Swat, I would never have guessed they were taken in Pakistan. It made me realise just how little I knew before coming here. I discovered Pakistan was far more than just a place to visit family. It’s a land where you can find peace and true enjoyment.
One evening, we went down to the pebble lake, where families gathered to make memories. Children were splashing in the water and everyone simply enjoyed the surrounding nature. The sun began to set beautifully as we joined in the fun and made memories of our own. I felt incredibly grateful for the chance to experience this side of Pakistan—a side that I now know I’ll return to, excited to relive every moment.
Lahore
In the final days of our trip, we travelled to Lahore. As our return to the UK was fast approaching, we decided to embrace tourist activities. First up was the Badshahi Mosque. Built in the 1600s, it stands as a rich historical landmark of Lahore.
Getting through to the mosque was tricky, heckled by groups offering to store our shoes for a small fee before stepping into the building. After finally placing our shoes in one of the stalls, we headed in. We walked through the large courtyard leading up to the mosque. I was surprised to learn that during the 1800s, the mosque was used as a military garrison by the British Empire. However, after increased resentment by surrounding Muslims, the British re-established the mosque as a place of worship for the Muslims of Lahore.
Lahore: Wagah Border
Another landmark we visited in Lahore was the Wagah Border, where we witnessed the Beating Retreat ceremony. This daily spectacle involves soldiers from Pakistan and India displaying intense rivalry. Crowds on each side cheer encouragement for their country. It was surreal to realise how close we were to India. A few feet away, across a gate, stood people from a completely different nation.
As we sat in the stands, waving our flags and trying to stay cool in the blazing sun, the experience felt both exciting and educational. It was a powerful reminder of the histories and complex dynamics that exist at this border. Despite the radiant energy, I noticed a lack of organisation and investment on the Pakistani side of the border. This was disheartening, especially considering how significant this landmark is for the country—a symbol of national pride and unity.
When discussing with my parents later, they mentioned that years ago the Pakistani side was much better organised and quite equal with the Indian side. This comparison made the current state even more disappointing. Learning this, I hoped that more investment would be put into the Pakistani side. This is vital to the significance of this landmark and the experience for visitors. Despite that, being there still left a lasting impression and deepened my appreciation and interest in this historic site.
A New Perspective of Pakistan
As I wrap up my thoughts on this trip, I can say that it surely taught me a lot. It revealed places I never expected to come across. It challenged me with situations I sometimes wished I could avoid, and at other times, placed me in moments I wished could never end.
Like any trip, there were certainly moments of uncertainty, times when I questioned why I was in a particular place or why I wasn’t enjoying certain aspects as much as I had hoped. However, these lows were far outweighed by the highs: the thrills of discovery, of opening my eyes to hidden beauty and of pushing myself beyond the comfort zones I often cling to.
Whether you’ve already travelled to Pakistan, you’re planning your first visit, or even just exploring the idea of a trip elsewhere—I hope embracing the unexpected leads you to unforgettable adventures!
